Sunday, 1 July 2012

Basic pants pattern Part 2: Back

Work in progress: self-drafted cigarette pants. They are waiting for the waistband to be added! Please, believe me, they look more beautiful up close. Yesterday I tried them on, and they fit perfectly!

I wanted to created slim (or cigarette) pants, something in between this Burdastyle version and Colette's  Clover.

If you'd like to draft the pattern for trousers by yourself, follow my tutorial. Today, we'll draft the back.

After you've finished drawing the front pattern, you will draft the back pattern over the top of it. Why, you ask? Because the basic frame for the front and the back is the same. Most of the alterations will take place between the waist and the crotch (we need to create more room for sitting and to accommodate our bottom!).

This is how the front looks. Next step will be modifying the part from the waist to the crotch.

CC₆ = 1 cm
C₃C₇ = 2 x CC₆
BB₂ = CC₆
B₂B₃ = BB₁ (=¼ waist measurement)
C₇C₈ = 0.5cm
C₉C₃ = C₃C₈
C₉C₁₀ = 3cm

Draw a line between C₈C₁₀
C₁₀ C₁₁ = 1.5cm

AA₆ = 3.2 cm
A₆A₇ = 1.8cm
Draw a line A₇B₂

C₅C₁₂ = 5cm
Draw a line connecting C₁₁, C₁₂ & B₂

A₇A₈ = ¼ waist measurement + 4.5cm (dart) + 0.25cm (ease) - 0.5cm (balance difference)
A₈A₉ = 0.5cm

If you look at the front part, we have added 0.5cm for balance .

Connect A₉B₃
You can draw a light line A₉A₇ for reference. Later on, you'll shape this line to accomodate darts.

D₁D₃ = D₂D₄ = 1cm
E₁E₃ = E₂E₄ = 1cm

Draw lines C₈E₄ & C₈B₃

Draw a line D₃E₃
Connect D₃ & C₁₁

A₇H₁ = 8cm
H₁H = HH₂ = 1.25cm
HH₃ = 12cm
H₂I = ½H₂A₉
II₁ = II₂ = 1cm
II₃ = 12cm

Now it's time to create a line line connecting A₉ with A₇ shaping both darts.

We have finished drafting the basic pants patten! We've got to create pockets and the sections for the fly and the waistband. But at this point, you can adjust this pattern to your desired style and create a muslin.

Using the previous pattern draft, copy the front and the back on separate sheets of paper.

In the next post, I'll show you how I adjusted the basic draft, fitted the muslin and step-by-step sewing instructions.

I hope you find this information useful! If there is anything you'd like to ask, please shoot :)


  1. WOW! Spectacular tutorial! Thanks for sharing. I think that, your pants are going to be amazing.

    1. Thank you, Maider :) I try to keep track of my lessons for the future (when I am a grand mother or something). But if somebody else finds it helpful, I could not be happier ;)

  2. Gosh, this is amazing! I hope to give this a try in the future!

  3. Hi there. Very clear instructions and great photos. Did you ever write about the muslin and adjustments? I have a tricky figure for pants, and would love some guidance. Thanks!

  4. Thanks for your kind comment! Trousers are tricky beasts and, unfortunately, I am not the best person to answer how to fit them. I covered only some minor adjustments of the crotch, that's about it.