Wednesday, 20 March 2013

Pencil skirt - Part II

Yesterday, I worked on my pencil skirt until past midnight - but still didn't manage to finish it. Lots and lots of hand work which, even if repetitive, requires some concentration. Here's what I managed to accomplish by the end of the day:

Overcast by hand all the seams of the lining (three in total). To add some spice to the routine, I used red and black thread to overcast the edges.

Experimented with the waistband. Claire Shaeffer writes in her book that "only three techniques are used couture for finishing the waist edges of skirts and pants: the self-fabric band, the faced band and the faced edge". For my waistband, I went for a self-fabric band. If you want to make the same one, here are the steps. I did not follow 100% the order and directions from the book, but couture techniques are meant to be improvised:

  • I pinned Petersham ribbon around my waist to determine the length of the waistband. 
  • Using the Petersham ribbon as interfacing, I basted it to the fashion fabric wrong side up. 

  •  Right sides together, I basted the waistband to the skirt. Then I stitched it with my machine (this was the only seam which I machine stitched; all other seams were made by hand).
  • I pressed the seam towards the band, folded the raw edge inside and, using fell stitches, sewed the folded edge to the seamline.

The drawing from the book illustrating the technique which I used
So far my skirt is unhemmed and I need to finish the waistband by adding hooks and eyes, but I am so proud of the outcome that I can't help sharing it with you!

Hand-picked zipper from the inside 

Outside view. Even though the waistband is not completely finished, I am very satisfied with the end result.

Fell stitched waistband with remaining basting

Right side of the waistband: OMG I love this fabric!

Waistband from the front. 
Still deciding on the length

Unfortunately this skrit has to wait two more weeks because in just a few hours I am flying to New York and then to Baltimore to join Susan Khalje's French jacket seminar! After the seminar I'll spend a week with a friend from Susan's class who lives in Canada! More to come...


  1. Ох, какая красивая юбка!! Со всех сторон:))) А мы только из Торонто прилетели:)) Желаю приятной погоды и жду про семинар, очень интересно:)))

  2. I feel like I learn something everytime I read your blog. I am so impressed with this skirt. Are you hand casting most of your garments now? I agree, the material is GORGEOUS! Wow to your French jacket class. I just checked out the website and it looks fantastic. I love the idea of the shopping trip to gather the fabric for your jacket. I hope you will be posting lots of instagram photos so we can all follow along. Enjoy.... oh and it seems that you did end up getting a visa for Canada. Yay!

  3. Tiene una pinta fenomenal!!!!!
    Qué tengas un buen viaje, suena muy bien lo del seminario, me das un poco de envidia ;-)

  4. Your attention to detail is getting more spectacular every time you post, Inna! That looks absolutely smashing!

  5. Just beautiful!

  6. Wow, this looks great! Well done!

  7. После жаркой Японии (+20C) тяжело смотреть на прогноз погоды в Монреале... Курс будет интересным, сегодня утром начинаем!

  8. Because it takes tons of time, I don't apply this technique to all garments, but only for silks or other delicate fabrisc that ravel a lot. For sturdier fabric I use machine finishes or none - it all depends on the garment construction. I think it's good to know different techniques and apply them when it feels logical.
    Regarding the fabric shopping, I'll post separately about it, but I was not a big fan: I bought mine in a different store ^.^

  9. Gracias guapa! (>y<)

  10. P.S. Won't post pics on Instagram since my Japanese phone is not compatible to the foreign networks :(

  11. Thanks! I think all people in the sewing community sew with intention to become better and improve our skills ≖‿≖

  12. I adore the hand picked zipper from the inside - seriously gorgeous!! As is your fabric :)

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