Tuesday, 3 September 2013

LFJ sew-along: schedule and supplies!

If you are still excited about the sew-along, let me introduce you to the world of fabric and supplies for the jacket.

But before I start talking about supplies and patterns, I wanted to let you know that Leisa and I created quite a generous schedule so that you don't rush but rather take your time on each step and enjoy the process. We'll give you one month to choose the fabric and patterns.


October 7: Muslin

October 14: Cut the fashion fabric and lining

October 21: Quilting

October 28: Machine baste the jacket together & pin the sleeves

November 4: "
Real fitting", fixing problems before sewing the jacket together

November 11 - 18:
Sewing the lining

November 25 - December 9:

December 16:
Adding trims, chain and hooks

December 23:

December 30:
Skirt (optional)


For the jacket alone you'll need 2 - 2.5 yards (1.8 - 2.30 cm) of wool or wool bouclé and  1.5 - 2 yards (1.4 - 1.8 cm) of silk charmeuse or crêpe-de-Chine for the lining. If your fabric contains a repeat, you definitely need to buy more fabric to match your pattern. Also, don't forget that for this jacket we use quite generous seam allowances (during the course of the sew-along, you'll understand why). As a reference, for my previous class with Susan, I purchased 3 yards of fashion fabric and 4 yards of lining thinking about a jacket and skirt. Since I only made the jacket, I still have 1 yard of each left for the skirt, which will be plenty.


You'll also need:
  • a walking foot
  • hand sewing needles (you can get them from my Etsy shop)
  • shoulder pads (only if desired)
  • buttons 
  • hooks
  • trim (depending on your design, you might need anywhere between 5 to 11 yards (4.5 - 10 metres) of it
  • last, but not lest, a metal chain to create weight on the lower hem!


The "classical" variation of the jacket is collarless and includes a three-piece sleeve. A two-piece sleeve will also work for the jacket! So no panic! The only difference with the three-sleeve piece is that the latter allows for better vent placement.

During the sewing camp, Susan suggested to choose a pattern with princess seams which start from the shoulders. She recommended this type of pattern as being easier and more effective to quilt. Having said that, you are the one who'll be making it, so it's really up to you.

We've gathered a list of patterns from various companies and also pinned them to our Pinterest board, fully dedicated to the sew-along.

Pattern suggestions

Fabric resources 

If you live in NYC, then you are lucky because Goldberg Mendel sells the most exquisite fashion fabric directly from the runway! 

Otherwise, here's the list of online fabric shops. 

If you want to suggest your favorite online or off-line shop I am not aware of, pretty please share in comment and I'll add them to the general list!

To be continued...


  1. Judith from Montréal4 September 2013 at 03:19

    Je suis tellement jalouse. J'pense que je vous parle pu. Ou bien je me pars un blog pour participer :)

  2. OUIIIII Fais ca!

  3. Oh, and you know what this needs, right? A flickr group. I want to drool over everyone's fabric and lining choices!

  4. What about Burda 7303 (see here: http://www.myfabrics.co.uk/30-7303_kostuem-burda-7303.html )? I would think it fits the bill...

  5. Yep! It's on my Pinterest board under NR. 7303-V

  6. Silvia - Sewing Princess5 September 2013 at 10:07

    Inna, there's a three-piece sleeve pattern on the current issue of La mia boutique. I know it's not readily accessible to everybody but I will be publishing a review and giveaway tomorrow on my blog. Plus readers who need a burdastyle pattern can use FAB40FB code for 40% off ;)

  7. OH! I'll let people know about your giveaway! Thanks for this giveaway!

  8. Hi do you think I could use v8916 for this?

  9. Totally! Thanks showing this pattern! I'll add it to our list, if you don't mind :)

  10. I'm in! I have several pieces of boucle that I've accrued for this exact purpose. I've always wanted a little french jacket!!!!

  11. Bonjour Mademoiselle :) Good to see you in :) I remember all the gorgeous bouclés from your plaid stash post! Do you already know which one you'll use for the jacket?

  12. Can't wait! Do you think V8804 will work as well? Thanks so much!!

  13. Hi Tiffany! I think you can, but I read on various forums that this pattern has some mistakes and that's why I did not include it to our pattern library. But it's up to you to decide whether you want to take the challenge and work with this pattern.

  14. I'm in- I have some dolce and gabbana boucle sitting in my stash waiting to be sewn up.

  15. Great! You have to absolutely show it off on our Flickr group :) Just approved your request ^.^

  16. Of course not! Fortunately I already have it so now all I need to do is to buy fabric

  17. Thanks Inna!

    I'll go with your recommendations then (nooo need to create extra work for myself. :) On to shopping!!!

  18. I shop online at FabricMart.com

  19. Hey where do i get the chain for the hem?

  20. I bought mine in M&J (listed in Fabric resources)

  21. Oh my, so many great patterns to choose from. I've got two favourites for now. I'm keen to know what pattern you used for your yellow one.

  22. In Susan's class we all worked on V7975 but I modified it.

  23. This is great! I am sewing a men's jacket now (wearable muslin before I start on the red tux jacket!) but after I'm done with that, I'd love to participate! Great timing Inna!

  24. How do you think the Cordova pattern would work for this? Besides the peplum & gathered sleeves it looks like it might work?

  25. Hmmmm If you get rid of the peplum and gathered sleeves it can work... Does the back also have princess seam? Anyway, you can always try! :) I like experiments!

  26. I'm late to the party but hoping I can follow along the archive. Question, the pattern wants a "lower edge width" is that my hip width? I'm assuming this is the widest point it will be? The only other measurement is back length - which I can figure out!


  27. Hi Lacey! There is never too late to make a(nother) jacket ;) Yes, lower edge width is the hip measurement. Would love to see your jacket once it's finished!

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